When you arrive at Changi International Airport in Singapore, you ask yourself, “How did they fit this airport into a mall?” There are more stores in this airport than in the malls of some small towns in the US. The drive from the airport reveals landscaping and architecture made of impeccable quality. Gucci, Armani and Swarovski stores are peppered throughout the metropolitan streets as a reminder that this small island (<60km>
Singapore is similar to the US on a cultural level in that it exhibits a “melting bowl” of different nationalities. Instead of immigrants from Europe, Africa and Latin/South America, the majority of Singapore’s population is from Asia. Thai, Malaysian, Indian and Chinese are amongst some of the many nations represented in Singapore. Luckily for me, they all brought their recipes with them. A food court in a Singaporean mall could pass for a walk through of Asian cuisine. Curries, sushi, kim chi and noodles are available readily. The one item that evades your reach is a beverage. Drinks are sold from a push cart that has to be flagged down from your seat. Of course, the one time that I eat at a food court in Singapore, the beverage cart does not make its usual rounds. So, only after the curry; that I requested to be extra spicy, burned its way through each one of my taste buds did the cart arrive.
All of the modern commodities are found here: air conditioning, fast cars, multi-story malls, fine dining and exorbitant prices. What sets apart Singapore from the US is the level of quality in service. It seems as if every fine detail is measured and inspected to ensure that the customer is pleased. Taxis do not smell like gyms, bathrooms are sanitary enough to serve as an operating room and the lawns lack litter. Service actually comes with a smile and stepping on someone's foot results in an exchange of apologies instead of blows. With a few minor exceptions, Singapore is about as sterile as a country can get. The sterility is not tantamount to dullness; Singapore has an active nightlife and boredom seldom breaches the scene. It’s a lot like what Miami would be if someone went through it with some soap and a brush.
In Singapore, you’re allowed to have fun, but don’t ruin the fun of others. Menaces are not tolerated and enforcement is quick and decisive. Caning is used as a punishment for some crimes, but the large monetary fines are what seem to deter most people from sophomoric behavior. Closed caption cameras are everywhere, resulting in a “Big Brother” type atmosphere. It makes for an interesting feeling when you’re in the bathroom and the sign in front of you displays a $500 fine for not flushing. With no attendant on duty, you wonder, “How will anyone know?” Then you look up and see a light fixture that doesn’t look like any of the others and you quickly push the flush handle.
Singapore City, the capital of Singapore, is a beautiful downtown area with numerous attractions. The city has several areas that represent specific parts of Asia; such as, China Town, Arab Street and Little India. Skyscrapers create a concrete canopy under which landscaped parks nudge against five star hotels. The Esplanade, a riverside performing arts center, is constructed to resemble the infamous durian fruit. Durian is a pineapple-size fruit with spiky skin; however, the horrific smell of the fruit is its hallmark. In some public places, there are signs prohibiting people from eating durian. The odor is best described as a mixture of onions and foot sweat. Worst than the bouquet is a taste so foul, that it makes durian one of the most wretched products of nature; and yet, it’s a popular delicacy. The Esplanade lacks the unpleasant traits of the fruit after which it is modeled; instead, it displays a stunning array of angles and curves. It’s a grand compliment to the skyscrapers and makes for a picturesque skyline.
Lush greenery is a common sight in Singapore. The numerous tropical plants, natural and planted, seem to be hinting at a country deep in natural areas. Unfortunately, the rapid development of Singapore has annihilated most of its rainforests. Bukit Timah Nature Reserve is one of the last remnants of undisturbed habitat. The reserve is an island of old growth rainforest in a sea of subdivision housing and shopping malls. Bukit Timah exhibits over 800 species of indigenous flora and over 500 species of animals. There are trees with leaves so large that they could hide a Buick. Once home to tigers, Bukit Timah is now a recreational park with multi-use trails and picnic areas. Separated from the city by about six miles, the species that inhabit this stand of rainforest will have to adapt to the spreading concrete jungle. The long-tailed macaques; for example, will have to survive angry dogs on leashes and avoid speeding cars. Watching a monkey climb on top of a $100,000 Mercedes Benz makes me wonder how long they have before they too join the tigers of Bukit Timah. After all, if they are anything like their bretheren in Thailand, they may start smashing car windows with rocks.
As a testament to Singapore’s fusion of cultures and habitats, its national symbol is the Merlion. With the head of a lion and the body of a fish, the Merlion stands tall and spews water from its mouth. Beyond its gaze, the sun sets and rises over an island that rivals the largest countries in its prestige and development.
